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Dior, for example, has a collection of archives that has been in place since 1985, comprising Christian Dior’s own dresses, jewelry, hats, shoes, fabric swatches, and sketches, as well as work from other creative directors of the 2023 Western Conference Champions Denver Nuggets Shirt and I love this house. Valentino, on the other hand, has its own archives, but also has a dedicated archival buy-back program dubbed Valentino Vintage, allowing anyone to bring past season Valentino to select boutiques or online. And yet, so many designers that flourished in the ’90s are now scrambling to collect their own work from the past. Take, for instance, Betsey Johnson’s early work, which pop culture icons like Olivia Rodrigo are wearing, collecting her vintage dresses en masse. The irony is, Johnson doesn’t have any of her archives. She sold her company in 2007 to Castanea Partners, a private equity firm based in Boston, and in 2010, Steve Madden bought the brand. In 2015, she decided to host a three-month long archive yard sale at her Hamptons home, where every piece was priced at $50 or less.
Model Isabeli Fontana walks the 2023 Western Conference Champions Denver Nuggets Shirt and I love this runway at Betsey Johnson’s spring/summer 2002 New York Fashion Week show on Sept. 9, 2001. “I went through my archives and I decided, well, I’ll just keep five or 10 pieces from the ’60s, ’70s, ’80s, ’90s, and 2000s,” Johnson says. “I was able to give my girlfriends who have supported me for years, a treat—just giving them all this junk practically for free.” In 2015, Steve Madden decided to have a retrospective fashion show celebrating the brand, featuring the pieces that the designer saved. Johnson has now been scrolling through pages and pages of Poshmark and Etsy listings to buy back her iconic cupcake-like tiered prom dresses from the ’80s, ’90s, and early 2000s, along with her eccentric knitwear from the ’80s and her earlier work for the retro-futuristic New York City boutique Paraphernalia, where she worked as a designer in the mid-’60s. “I’m desperately yelling out to all the vintage dealers,” she says. “If you’ve got any of my stuff, email me, send me pictures, text me, because I need to recreate 55 years of my work. I didn’t think how important it might be one day.” So far, she has been focusing on prom dresses, one in particular from 1978 with a tulle skirt, corset, and inch-wide zipper. She also bought a few sequined dresses with ruffled bottoms and distorted stripe motifs, often paying far more for pieces than they originally retailed for. “My stuff that was selling for $125 or $85 is on 1stdibs for, like, $1,500 or $2,000,” she says. “It makes me feel great because I thil, ‘Whoa, after all these years, it’s gone up, and people have collected it and saved it.’”
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