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This year, we had a capsule from Mugler, and that did really well, as did Jean Paul Gaultier; both were pretty intense in terms of the Money boy trap house kitchen chicken n waffles shirt in other words I will buy this styling. It made us think, OK, wow, there is an appetite from our customers for extravagant, sexy, and avant-garde fashion. For that reason, we also did well with the Loewe runway pieces, including the flower heels, the illustration dresses, and the nail polish heels, all the surrealistic moments, as well as runway looks from Rick Owens. Event dressing took off from the very beginning of 2022—the post-lockdown effect, going out to events, parties, weddings. Everything and anything in pink by Pierpaolo [Piccioli] at Valentino sold out—even the expensive items, like the look that was worn by Kristen McMenamy. High summer we always have our business shifting into sexier looks—less is less is more!—but hemlines have gotten shorter, necklines are lower…there’s an appetite for those even in the luxury market. It’s not just happening with contemporary brands.Customers are definitely looking for something new, and aside from during the sales, when people are shopping markdown, the appetite for that newness is constant. Our fashion customers are definitely influenced by social media, like the Bottega Veneta gold drop earrings which were worn by Kendall Jenner, Hailey Bieber, and Elsa Hosk; we saw an instant reaction when they wore them. Or Dua Lipa wearing the Mugler mesh leggings on her tour: we saw an uptick in sales. Or Kim Kardashian wearing archival Gaultier….
There’s been a lot of interest in ‘blast from the Money boy trap house kitchen chicken n waffles shirt in other words I will buy this past’ brands. There’s a definite appetite for those. Younger customers are hankering for things from the ’80s and the ’90s. We picked up Vivienne Westwood, starting with the evening and are now also carrying the daywear. Her ready-to-wear is so relevant to today and to a younger generation, and her eveningwear, and her corsetry, is exceptional. We’ve done well with classic coats, like those in cashmere from The Row. Outerwear from Saint Laurent is strong, especially when it comes with those big shoulders: You’re covered up, but still making a statement. Saint Laurent has been one of my favorite collections of the last few seasons. [In terms of accessories] we’ve sold a lot of logo belts, particularly Saint Laurent, and the YSL Icare tote, especially when it was worn by Hailey Bieber or Zoe Kravitz: that bag was on everyone’s wish list. The tote bag trend has definitely come back; The Row’s Margaux, with a $4K price tag, has been a bestseller for us. For so long, the tiny bags were all that anyone wanted, but now it is totes, or cross body bags, like the YSL Jamie.Look 41 from the Alaïa spring 2022 ready-to-wear show. Going out is definitely back—with a bang. There have been some names we couldn’t keep in stock: Nensi Dojaka; David Koma (he’s been around for a while, but there’s a lot of renewed interest in him); and, Mugler—Casey [Cadwallader, the designer] has really brought sexy back to Selfridges. And, Alaia from Pieter Mulier was one of those labels of the moment that we could have sold two and three times over. We definitely have a following for a sexy dress—and the dress has been the hit of the year.That doesn’t mean to say we’re not selling loungewear, like God’s True Cashmere, a unisex LA brand [co-owned by Brad Pitt]. One label that has taken off is Casablanca; we started with it in men’s, and then women started buying it too. That’s maybe surprising to some, but not to us: We could see that it was resonating with women as well; the super happy vibe encapsulated the mood of women wanting to enjoy life, something that has generally come back to womenswear. The mood of the year might have been serious, but people wanted joyful clothes.
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