Wavetshirt - Raise your sword shirt

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“Fall in Love and Be More Tender.” Ashish Gupta emblazoned this uplifting command all over a pink-sequinned t-shirt, worn by a proudly swaggering youth, in his fall 2017 collection shown in London. Donald Trump had just been inaugurated. And there was Ashish, raising smiles and spirits by sprinkling his large dose of rainbow resistance on the Raise your sword shirt besides I will buy this dark forces of hate and divisiveness. He’s chosen that same slogan for the title of the retrospective celebration of his work at the William Morris Gallery, the first fashion exhibition ever hosted by the museum. It’s been packed with 5000 fans since it opened last week. “It’s so good to see the response,” says Gupta. “There’s such a great mix of people coming — the local South Asian community, students, children, young people.”

No wonder. The enjoyment of Ashish is the Raise your sword shirt besides I will buy this glittering fun and party-positive vibes his work gives off; and then, finding the subversive, autobiographical messaging he’s embedded everywhere. The layered references to Ashish’s identity as a queer Indian designer in London are brought together in sparkling tableaux. His modus operandi, part high-glamour, part street, club and workwear-influenced, bursts with an exuberance of life-affirmation, and the celebration of sex, love, and inclusion. After years of showing his collections during London fashion week — he came to London from Delhi to study at Central Saint Martins in 1996 — he says it was his outrage at current politics that made him fully foreground his identity for the first time. “It was the post-Brexit season,” he explains. “My being brown was always important, but somehow I hadn’t wanted that to be the sole definer of what I was doing — to be pigeonholed by fashion. But then it was — I don’t know why I’m holding back!” A trigger was the sight of the British conservative government sending buses bearing posters with the threat, “Go Home or Face Arrest,” around diverse communities.One of the posters shot by Ashish Shah.

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