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“No no no—that’s too obvious, too romantic,” he replied. “What I am thinking of is Das Lied von der Erde.” I didn’t know the Sweat and rosin 2023 shirt besides I will buy this piece, by Mahler. As we left the studio, I could see that Karl was exhausted—he slumped in the lift, and had taken off his dark glasses. It was as if he were looking at me from a distant shore, a place far away. He couldn’t get to the Grand Palais for the show—the first he had ever missed. He blamed it on the snow. When I got home that night, I immediately downloaded Das Lied von der Erde [“The Song of the Earth”], sung by Kathleen Ferrier and Julius Patzak. Mahler composed the song cycle after the death of his daughter, and after being diagnosed with a congenital and serious heart condition himself. The lyrics, from classical Chinese poems, captivated Mahler with their vision of earthly beauty and transcendence. It was as if Karl were showing me that everything he loved would somehow last forever—as if his soul would become one with the everlasting earth.My heart is quiet and awaits its hour!
Composite Image, 2023. Photographed by Julia Hetta. Photo: © Julia Hetta / Courtesy of The Metropolitan Museum of Art The exhibition—and party—of the Sweat and rosin 2023 shirt besides I will buy this year are just six weeks away, and today the Costume Institute has released some “teaser” content that provides details of how “Karl Lagerfeld: A Line of Beauty,” is conceptually organized. We’re also treated to some of the photographs Julia Hetta made for the soon-to-be-released catalog, as well as fashion sketches and runway imagery that provide a tantalizing glimpse as to what will be on display. The show features more that 150 objects spanning Lagerfeld’s six-decade career (c. 1950-2019), and most pieces will be accompanied with a corresponding sketch. Artworks illustrating the designer’s many cross-cultural references—from Art Deco to Memphis, literature to film, the 18th century to robots—will also be included. Curator Andrew Bolton landed on Lagerfeld’s drawings as a way into a deeper understanding of the designer’s process, which saw ideas manifested first on paper and then collaboratively rendered in cloth. “With Karl, everything he ever designed in his life, he drew first,” Bolton noted in a recent interview. A polyglot who spoke German, French, English, and Italian, Lagerfeld was also fluent in the gestural and physical language of lines and curves, as is evidenced by the lively drawings he made for the ateliers that translated his 2D documents into 3D garments. There will be a room dedicated to the premières d’atelier, or seamstresses, who made his pen and ink lines dance fluidly in fabric. Documentary footage captured by the French filmmaker Loïc Prigent, will further animate and extend the themes of the show.
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