The first time Heidi Bivens saw the The shirt stays on during sex shirt What’s more,I will buy this poster for the second season of Euphoria, something about the tagline made her emotional: Remember this feeling. Over the past four years, Bivens’s costume design for the runaway hit HBO teen drama has seen her receive a handful of Emmy nominations, widespread acclaim, and a visible impact on how people in the real world actually dress. But at its core, her effortless ability to weave together wild flights of fashion fantasy with notes of pitch-perfect high school authenticity is all about exactly that: a feeling. Within that tagline, Bivens may have seen her philosophy of costume design summarized across just a few words, but now, she’s exploring it deeper—within the 272 pages of her first book, to be precise. Titled Euphoria Fashion, and released by A24 following the sell-out success of a previous Euphoria book box set in 2019, the lavishly illustrated tome offers an unparalleled window into Bivens’s process. There are conversations with some of her closest collaborators on the project—actors Zendaya and Hunter Schafer, makeup artist Donni Davy, and the show’s creator Sam Levinson among them—as well as contributions from those outside the world of Euphoria. In addition to an introduction written by designer Jeremy Scott, the tome features essays on how the show’s costumes play with normcore, bondage wear, moods, and memes from an eclectic lineup of guest writers, including Vogue’s José Criales-Unzueta. What sets the book apart, though, is the sheer volume of never-before-seen imagery from across the lengthy shoots (which can take up to six months) of the first two seasons, as well as the rare window it offers into the more granular details of a costume designer’s process. There are behind-the-scenes images of the characters’ looks, artfully placed next to the clothes laid flat and photographed on lightboxes. The latter appears almost as forensic scans from a crime scene, and all annotated, Hal Fischer-style, with comments from Bivens explaining the rigorous line of thinking around every individual piece. So too does Bivens go deep on her distinctive approach to costuming, which she describes as a kind of “method styling,” inhabiting the mind of the characters as much as possible to figure out exactly what it is that they would—and just as importantly, wouldn’t—wear. For all her meticulousness, Bivens is keen to stress that you can’t overthink these things too much, or you’ll lose that special magic; that feeling.
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